Use the RockShox seal tool to force in the black oil seals. They are quite a tight fit and require a bit of force. Make your your foam rings are properly soaked and chuck them in above the oil seals. Finally use the other end of the tool to push in the new grey outer-seals. On newer models the compression adjuster is anodised blue, but on older ones it is black with blue symbols. Basically its your lockout.
With the little circlip off you should be able to just pull the knob streight off over the gate adjuster. This is pretty stiff at first because of the o-rings in the system, but they are basically easy to take off and not really torqued tightly. I found that my 24mm socket would only just fit over the gate adjuster, so I would recomend an extra-deep socket if you can get one.
With the assembly loosened you should be able to pull the unit out to reveal it in all its bright-red glory. Take the forks out of the stand and chuck the old fluid in your waste bowel. Inspect the assembly's o-rings. Rock shox recomend replacing them applying some oil to the new ones, but I didn't bother because they seemed in good condition and I didn't want to get the wrong size so I just put a blob of the relevant suspension oil on all the existing ones.
At the bottom of the fork stantion there is a circlip recessed inside stantion. Use internal circlip pliars to remove it. I only had external circlip plairs, which worked, but it was a bit trickey. Pull down and remove the rebound dampener assembly, isnpect this as with the motion control assembly replacing o-rings where necessary, clean and apply a blob of 15wt to the o-rings.
Reinstall the rebound dampener assembly replacing the circlip. Make sure not to damage this - its a bit delicate.
Using a syringe, put ml's of 5wt oil into the top of the stantion. Replace the cleaned motion control assembly and torque with your 24mm deep socket to about Nm. Replace the anodised cap and circlip. Remove this cap to reveal 3 ball bearings. Using your 24mm socket, undo the top of this stantion. Remove the spring Do the top up to about Nm as before. Put a blob of grease on each ball beaing and replace the top cap of the u-turn adjuster with your trusty 2.
This was probabbly the most difficult bit for me as I found it hard to get them both on without the outer seal folding over. Try and bribe a mate to help. Invert your forks turn them upside down with the lowers facing the sky.
You may want to lower your stand for this. Don't make the same mistake as me and try to do your bolts up first. You won't be able to put any oil in! Good to know that the seal here is good though. Pop in 5ml's of 15wt fork oil into each leg. This is a seriously small ammount and it made me wonder if i'd done it right - but I actually used too much my forks now won't come close to bottoming out!
Again, torque with a 5mm allen key to about 7Nm. Replace your red anodised rebound adjuster. I did this. Also a good idea to have your maxel appart, clean it and the wipe down with an oily rag. Reverse the procedure above to reinstall the forks. Make sure there is no fork oil about to contaminate your brakes!!!
Followed by beer. Posted by Peter Knight at pm. Hi there, Great tutorial : I've just bought some Pikes and the guy used 'heavy' oil rather than 15w. Small bump compliance does not seem great, do you think swapping for 5w would help?? You should have 5wt in the motion control circit and 15wt in the lowers.
Rockshox specify this for Pikes so i'd be reluctant to put anything else in there. If there is a funny weight of oil in either end then i'd get onto it ASAP. I believe you. It seemed like a really small ammount, but i'm sure thats what it said in the manual.
I will rectify this. After how long time do you recommend to change o-rings? Should they be always replaced when servicing fork I'm just wondering if I need to replace mines for my boxxer.
Personally i'd onl replace them if there is visible signs of wear and damage. Also, if there is signs of tearing anywhere or excess dirt causing pitting then replace them. Basically anything that looks odd. If you do replace them be careful what size you use - it will have to be a pretty good fit yet wide enough to be effective.
Get a RockShox kit if you can. The Motion control service kit is part number If they are OK which they should be after less than 1 year , just pop a bit of 15wt oil on them and let them be. Hey, that seems very helpful but do you have a tutorial on how to lower a pike below 95mm? I have wondered about doing that for dirt-jumping etc and have seen it done, but havn't got a clue how to go about it.
As I understand it envolves cutting the stantions and re-taping them for the various circlips etc that are required. If you find anything out, please let me know. I have just brought a stumpjumper and has pike coils 08 i think they have had little use but there is a clunking noise when they are depressed quickly in mm travel mode at the bottom of the stroke-I suspect it is the spring making the noise? Clunking through the travel is, of course, a classic symptom of something internal broken.
My freind recently had the same problem on some Marzocchi 55's and it turned out the compression has snapped in half!!! That said, it could be anything. Open it up and have a look if you feel confident enough.
If not call friendly Mr Flooke. It may well be quite obvious, but check for any cracks and check out the oil level too! To clarify where all the oil is supposed to go - mm of 5wt in the top motion-control side. No oil in the top spring-side. I have a spare spring witting around with a black rubber bit about halfway down the spring?
Is this black rubber bit the way of identifying if the fork is firm, x-firm? Do I have the Black x-Firm, or is there another way of identifying the spring? Many Thanks Chris. There should be a small dash of coloured paint along the side of the spring to identify the stiffness. The colours are outlined here Also, its worth checking out the following links for servicing your Rockshox forks. Sound, just serviced my forks using your guide. Page 37 RCT3: Insert the low speed compression adjuster into the compression cam assembly.
Push down and turn the low speed compression adjuster clockwise until it clicks into place. RCT3 RC: Use needle-nose pliers to insert the bleed plug into the compression adjuster until it clicks into place. Page 38 Push the rebound damper shaft into the cartridge tube. The shaft should not move more than 2 mm if the bleed was successful. If the shaft moves while in the locked position, repeat the bleed procedure. Page 40 RCT3: Place the compression mode adjuster knob onto the compression RCT3 top cap with the long tab near the front of the crown.
Turn the knob clockwise until it engages the first detent space. RCT3 RC: Place the low speed compression adjuster knob onto the compression top cap with the long tab near the back of the crown.
Page 41 RCT3: Install the low speed adjuster knob and knob retaining screw. Use a torque wrench with a 2 mm hex bit socket to tighten the nut to 1. Page 43 Slide the lower leg assembly along the upper tubes until it stops and the spring and damper shafts are visible through the lower leg bolt holes.
Use a rag to clean all excess oil from the outer surface of the lower leg. Install a new crush washer on the non-drive side and drive side bottom Damper side bolts. Page 44 Refer to the air chart on the fork lower leg and pressurize the air spring to the appropriate pressure for your rider weight.
You may see a drop in the indicated air pressure on the pump gauge while filling the air spring; this is normal. Continue to fill the air spring to the recommended air pressure. Page 45 www. Our technical communication will be delivered in innovative and exciting ways, with deliberation and accuracy that inspires loyalty and trust across the globe. This manual is also suitable for: pike pike pike. Print page 1 Print document 45 pages. Rename the bookmark. Delete bookmark?
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